I get a lot of different questions about longarm machine quilting. Here are some of the most commonly asked questions by customers:
Should I bring the backing and/or batting?
You definitely want to bring your own backing. Make sure it is a minimum of 4" wider than the quilt top on each side. I carry Hobbs Heirloom 80/20 108" batting for about $10/yard. If you don't have time to pick up your batting, I can do that for you for the cost of the batting plus a $5.00 travel charge.
What kinds of threads can I choose from?
I carry two brands of quilting thread -- Superior Threads and Signature by A&E. The Superior brand threads are available So Fine! a fine 100% poly thread in a variety of colors. I also carry King Tut variegated thread which is 100% Egyptian long staple cotton. I love this thread because the color changes are quick (about 1" or less) and never looks "choppy". Signature by A&E is a 100% cotton thread in a large variety of colors. This thread is a heavier thread and gives a much bolder look when stitched.
Does the bobbin thread have to match the top thread?
Since the machine I used is a heavy industrial machine, it doesn't have the fine tension adjustments your domestic machine. Because of this, I usually make the threads match. Should I use, say, white thread in the top thread and black thread in the bobbin, I would end up with white dots on the back or black dots on the front. If you really want a different color of thread in the bobbin, I would strongly recommend you use a busy print fabric for your backing where the dots wouldn't show. With the King Tut variegated thread, I always use a solid color thread which coordinates with the thread and backing.
Do you charge for thread changes?
Yes -- I do. I have quilted many t-shirt quilts over the years where the client has requested I match the color of thread to each fabric. I've had some quilts that used more than 15 different colors of thread which means a lot of stopping to change thread on the backside of my machine. I charge $5 for your first thread and $1 for each additional color. Variegated thread is $10 as it is a bit more costly than the solids.
Do you have a computerized machine?
At this time, no.... I don't have a computerized system. My machine is completely hand-guided, meaning I "draw" every line, loop and curve. When it comes to straight lines, they are the hardest things to do on a free-hand machine. So, when you ask me to "just stitch-in-the-ditch on the whole thing" be sure that is what you really want. Like cross-hatching, stitch-in-the-ditch (SID) is considered advanced custom quilting and will bring the cost up for quilting.
Will puffy/full areas quilt out?
Whether the puffy/full areas will "quilt out" totally depends on how you want your project quilted. If you have wavy borders, a meandering pattern will usually take care of easing in the fullness. If the puffy/full areas are in the center of a block or over the majority of the quilt "body", the quilt will benefit from an all over meandering design. Too much volume can result in creases as the quilt is stitched.
Do you do bindings?
Yes - although it's not my favorite thing to do. I can either machine stitch your binding to just the front of the quilt and you can then stitch it to the back; or, I can machine stitch to the front and hand stitch to the back. If I need to make your binding from yardage or strips that you provide, there will be an additional charge. Please see my website for pricing information. I like to encourage my clients to do their own binding.
Here is a great YouTube video Missouri Star Quilt Company showing how to do your binding.
What is the most common mistake you find?
Borders! Wavy borders! The best way to get a flat border? Measure!!!! I like to measure down the center lengthwise for side borders. Once the side borders are sewn in place, measure across the center for your top and bottom borders. PIN your borders in place and sew with whichever side has the most fullness on the BOTTOM (touching the feed dogs) to allow your machine to ease any fullness as the seam is being stitched.
Here is a great YouTube video from National Quilters Circle showing how to cut and sew your bindings.
Are there any other questions you might have about longarm machine quilting? Leave your question in the comments section below.
Happy Quilting,
Patti